The Beginning
The bikes were transported by a company to Sagres, luggage packed, the only thing left to do was to fly there and start. (And hopefully find our bikes at the accomodation). We had booked a day extra to get settled and check the bikes before heading out. This extra day was also a perfect opportunity to have a little tour the the official start point of this trip: The cape Vicente lighthouse. The place itself isn’t that great, lots of tourists, but for me it meant the beginning of an epic trip across Europe! Even though this day was only 12km, we had begun. 7700km of Europe’s finest and toughest gravel roads were waiting, and we were ready.
I’m writing ‘’we’’ because the first few stages I would do together with my dad. It is always nicer to ease in a trip together and he also likes the idea of an epic cycling trip. The plan was as follows:
The Plan
Cycle together for the first 6 stages of the European divide trail. Approximately 1400km and 19.000 meters of climbing. We had no idea how tough it would get but at least we had an idea of what do to. This section of the trip would lead us through Portugal into Spain. Across Andalusia and then northwards towards Valencia. I would then continue northwards and my dad would travel east into Valencia to fly back home.
Portugal
Portugal was the toughest start we could possibly have. On Komoot we’d seen there was a high and very steep hill on which we had to push our bikes. After 20ish kilometers of gravel through dunes the GPS send us down a steep hill and up again. ‘’Must be the one’’. We did see a perfect paved road going down too but our route said down the hill so we went down the hill. After all ,adventure was calling. Big. Mistake. We scrambled down and pushed our bikes up in about an hour, only to find that this wasn’t the hill! 50 meters of paved road led us to a parking for a beach restaurant and on our right we saw an even steeper hill. The hill. This time we removed our bags and walked up, down again, and carried/pushed our bikes up. Another good half hour wasted. Not the best start but the view ended being great so onwards we went. Our first official day ended in a small town where the local bartender helped us get a bed in the community center.
The route in Portugal was diverse. The tracks were very rough at times and unfortunately a lot of fences all over the place, even some that closed of sections of the trail. Some detours were needed because of this and more than once we carried our bikes over a gate. There was a lot of private land but often we’d only realize this at the end when we were so happily greeted by a gate with a very sturdy lock. Not the best way to cycle, although it does add to the adventure. Hours we spend cycling alone with no one around us. Up old logging roads. (Very steep and rough) Or just across the hills. Dad’s bike wasn’t the best for long steep climbs so he had some hike a bike sections. Luckily we always eventually made it to the top and we could enjoy spectacular views.
After 4 days of cycling, hike a bicking and already doubting every decision of this trip followed by immediately being amazed by the trail again ,we made it to the Spanish border.
Spain
Spain immediately felt different. The paths were better, or so we thought at least the first day, the people a lot friendlier and life was good. Me and dad had already looked at the route further up and decided Cordoba or Jaén would be a better place to part ways. After this the climbs would get longer and higher and just not enjoyable with the bike my dad was riding. So new plan: Cycle to Jaén together and then I’d go up the mountains and dad would go south towards Malaga.
Spain is filled with camino’s. A true hikers paradise. Unfortunately for cycling a lot of gravel paths are on private land so the route does occasionally follow one of the camino’s. It turns out that hiking paths and off road cycling paths are not the same thing. Some days felt more like hiking with a bike than actually cycling. The roads were very pretty but if you spend 3-4km carrying your bike up an old Camino trail you get over it real quick. Sometimes we could avoid these sections, sometimes we just had to go for it.
Compared to Portugal Spain had less random gates closing off sections of the trail. Farmers here have such an insane amount of land and everything is already fenced off so there wasn’t really a case of ‘’illegal riding’’. We’d ride on some private and public hunting grounds sometimes but so far none of us have been mistaken as an Iberico pig so all good! We did see many of these relaxing and eating whilst cycling. Such a good life.
That Portugal and Spain had been rougher than we’d expected was also showing on our bikes. We spend a day in Cordoba so I could get new brakes. The previous days and descents became a little more exciting when brakes don’t brake like they used to.
So far I’m having mixed feelings about Spain. The dryness and heat (32-39 degrees) really does make it tougher. Lack of wild campings spots means I need to pay for relatively expensive accomodations. But the roads, trails and scenery makes up for a lot of things.
My dad will follow the ‘’Via Verde de la Aceite’’ down to Malaga and I’ll slowly start climbing toward 1700m. A real milestone because after this I’ll go towards north Spain and hopefully slightly milder climates, more camping and better trails. We’ll see. Best strategy is to take the trip corner by corner. You never know what’s coming next.
Oh and of course here’s some stats:
Total Kilometers: 772km
Total height meters: 12.855m (almost 1,5 times the Mount Everest)
Total calories: 31.293 (104 donuts, 53 Big Macs or 1251 medium sized carrots)
Fun factor: 10/10. Truly epic so far.
Jens, bedankt dat ik een stukje van de EDT mocht meefietsen. Het was pittig, maar ik had het niet willen missen! Ik wens je veel veilige kilometers met mooie vergezichten en fijne ontmoetingen.
Pap