top of page

Not sure where to go? Or just curious what a bike-packing trip can look like? Read more about trips that I've done or those I'm currently doing  here

European Divide Trail - Spain

Spain is Europe’s second most mountainous country. On average you gain 2000 meter of elevation every 100km of cycling. This meant climbing, descending, climbing and very rarely a small stretch of flats. Some of the toughest kilometers I’ve done on a bike have been in Spain, however, this also made it the country with the most amazing views and riding so far.


Jaén - Casa Bajas


After saying goodbye to my dad in the morning I set off towards the mountains. He would gently cruise down to Malaga and I would be heading towards 1700m of altitude. I had seen that I would pass a Refugio at the highest point of the mountain and was very eager to spend a night there in total isolation and rest. It was still a day of cycling towards the beginning of the climb but it was relatively easy. It was more olive plantations, which meant decent gravel but no shade.



Funny thing about mountains that I noticed during this part, they sneak up on you. You can see them from far away, they stay far away and then suddenly you are completely surrounded. Finally my garmin told me I had to go up 700m, the Refugio was waiting. The trail took me through a lower forest where deers crossed the road. Then the forest stopped and I was cycling on the edge of the mountain with vultures circling above the canyon, absolutely beatiful moment. The road changed to a gravel path for just hikers and cyclists and the trees changed into pine trees, some refugio’s started to appear and the terrain became rougher. Then, no more trees. Just rocks and wind. I had reached the plateau. What followed was 20km of fantastic gravel riding through what felt like a different planet until I spotted my goal. Standing on a little hill was my Refugio. Nothing more than a concrete cottage with a place to sleep and shelter but in that moment it felt like a mansion. I spend the afternoon and evening reading, thinking about what I had done so far and stargazing. Maybe because the view was so good, or the scenery was so special, or maybe just tiredness but this evening I also felt a little alone for the first time. Guess that’s also part of bikepacking solo. The next day I descended down through the fog looking forward to two relatively flat days.



Casa Bajas - Aliaga


If someone asked me where the ‘’flat’’ part of Spain was on my route it would probably be the two days after the Refugio. The route led me through a valley following a via verde. (An old train route now made accessible for hikers and cyclists). A nice change to cycle with a bit more speed and racing a little through the countryside. I knew a really big climb was coming up so I enjoyed the easier tracks a lot. Trying to avoid all the rabbits did some bigger days of 100+km and then it was time for an insane day.


With no real plan of where to sleep or knowing how far I could make it, I stocked up on croissants, water, snacks and breakfast in case I found a nice camping spot. I was heading to the highest point of the whole route, just above 2000 meters. A climb of almost 1100meters. Unfortunately before this climb, there was a ‘’smaller’’ one of 500 meters. After, what turned out to be a brutal climb, I rode down a winding gravel road into a small town to refill my water when my Garmin made a terrible sound. A double beep and on the screen it read:


Climb BC*:

1100m

20.4km

Average gradient: 9%


It was now 13:30. I knew I’d be doing around 6-7km/h average, with some walking potentially. The next 3-4 hours would be climbing, on rough terrain. There wasn’t much I could do other than just start going up. Slowly in my biggest gear I started climbing. An hour passed, rocks getting bigger, legs starting to run out of energy and even the rockier flatter parts started to look like comfortable camping spots. But it was only 14km more, so might as well continue. Taking drastic matters, I started playing music on my phone to keep my motivation high. ‘’1,5 hours of climbing left, 3 minute songs on average, that’s only 30 songs. Which is 3x10 songs so I’m basically there’’

At 18:20 I finally had a very welcoming sight: the stony pillar showing it was the peak of the mountain at 2020 meters. I sat down, had my final donut with Nutella, FaceTimed mum and dad and started descending. I followed an access road to ski slopes which meant 15km of smooth pavement transporting me to a roadside hotel. What a feeling. With a total elevation of 2260 meters and fueled by adrenaline I raced down the mountain.


Aliaga - French Border


I was now, according to myself, in Northern Spain. I could basically smell the French bakery’s. It would still be at least a week before I would reach the border but it felt good getting closer to a new country. France had now slowly become a beacon where everything would be better. More campsites, more food, more forests and less dust. The trails will be easier too, based on nothing but hope.


During the last Spanish section I also ran into Dominik again! We had met very briefly at the beginning of our trip and then went different speeds and roads but whilst having a beer he showed up at the same campsite! We caught up, shared some experiences and both made a plan for the next days. He would continue and I’d stay behind for a little day of rest.

I set off again thinking about where he would be riding now as I headed to my next campsite but we didn’t see each other that day.

Another highlight was coming up too, a tunnel of 2km long and completely straight so you could see just the faintest bit of light. Inside though, it would be pitch black. Really bizar cycling through a dark tunnel for 15 minutes and the light at the end not getting any closer.

The next day I wanted to wildcamp somewhere but after riding 90km there still wasn’t a suitable place, I rode into town to make a plan and inmediatelly spotted someone sitting on a bench: Dominik! Also not having luck finding a good place we stayed in town and decided to ride together for a bit.


It was nice having a cycling buddy for a bit. Easier distribution of snacks + beers, good talks and small races down mountains. After 140km and a double menu deal at burger king we found a nice camping spot next to a river. Next day we rode 30km to a town where I would meet a friend of mine for lunch, Dominik kept riding.

After lunch and catching up I too went on again and then after a while I spotted the familiar sight of two orange Ortlieb bags mounted on an orange mountain bike. DOMINIK! Once again we joined forces and camped next to a lake with the best view possible. After that we had a coffee and both went our own speed again. (We met up again at the next campsite)


The last day of Spain was more climbing, an insane 7km climb with more than 700 meters of elevation (+some smaller climbs) was all that stood between me and France. But it didn’t matter anymore, after spending almost 2 hours on the first 7km there was a bit of rest on the downhill and then after a series of small but not easy climbs I saw the French flag. I had cycled across Spain.



Spain has been rough. Extremely hot at times, 40 degrees Celcius, dusty and I’ve done more climbing than I’d ever done.

But above everything else, Spain has been EPIC. Hasta luego España and Bonjour France!


Important statistics of day 13-31:


Amount of Km’s: 1842,26km

Amount of elevation: 24.453m

Amount of calories: 72.174cal

——————————————————-

Total km so far: 2614,26km

Total elevation: 37.308m (Halfway through the stratosphere now)

Total calories: 103.467cal (255 croissants)


92 weergaven0 opmerkingen

Recente blogposts

Alles weergeven

Comments


bottom of page