The European Divide Trail was finished and I felt a little lost without a real goal. I’d be heading south again after three months going north but not sure how or towards a specific goal.
Starting in a town close to the most North Eastern point in Europe, Kirkenes, I thought of a route to go in the direction of home again. I had two options:
Cycle south through Finland and then visit Eastern Europe
Through Norway
Since I had already spent so many time riding through forests and camping next to lakes I decided to go down through Norway. First heading west and then slowly south via the Lofoten islands and western coast. I was expecting magnificent fjords and dramatic landscapes, a good change after endless forests in Sweden.
I rode out of Kirkenes following the same route but after 30km I’d found myself on new roads. Without a real route or goal cycling felt a little more relaxed. The roads being paved to perfection also helped with the feeling of a relaxed cycling holiday. I made my way towards a small cabin where I’d meet my parents for a rest day. The Northern road wasn’t the nicest, a lot of empty land, a familiar sight so far north. After two relatively non exciting days I saw two very familiar motorcycles! Mom and Dad had already arrived. We spend the days barbecuing and catching up before we all rode out again into Norway.
Towards the Lofoten Islands
The first milestone was to reach Tromso, the start of the Lofoten islands. As I went south for a day or two the landscape started to change rapidly. Mountains appeared and the road went along with the Fjords. Sometimes with a strong headwind but you knew you’d always have tail wind as you went back along the Fjord. When it wasn’t possible to go over the mountains, you could ride through tunnels. Usually you’d press a button to activate a light, this would tell drivers there was a cyclist in the tunnel. I’m not a big fan of tunnels, the sound of cars is all around you and it is hard to figure out if they are coming towards you or passing from behind. The experience of rolling out a tunnel and seeing a huge fjord appear is very special though and definitely worth the uneasy cycling through the mountain.
Usually there are some resting areas for campervans at the far end in a fjord, and when you’re lucky you can pitch your tent there too! It’s not always perfectly flat but the views make up for it.
The Lofoten
Tromso felt like the start of the Lofoten for me, maybe not officially but I would soon reach the islands. The town itself is a small nautical hub and definitely a nice place to visit. I’d only cycled a short amount before reaching Tromso so I had the whole day to explore, surprisingly a lot of coffee places!
‘’You have to visit the Lofoten’’ ‘’The most beautiful part of Norway’’ ‘’Nothing can beat traveling through the Lofoten’’
Everyone adores the Lofoten for it’s natural beauty, mountains, fjords and overal scenery. And yes, it is very pretty but definitely not the best when cycling. It’s hiking paradise, there are many trails up the mountains and when traveling with a van or car it’s easy to do a hike, ride, camp and hike more. When riding a bike your options are a limited. There is really just one road to ride, and if you detour you’ll always find yourself back on the main road. Unfortunately this road is also full with campervans, motorcyclists, cars and other cyclists.
A small note on other cyclists. It surprised me to see so many people on bikes riding around in Norway. Until Norway I’d only see a few other people traveling on bicycles and now there’s 10 every day that are heading north. Sometimes we’d stop for a small chat about the route etc but usually it’s a quick wave and hej!. There’s no wrong way of packing your bike but I see so many people carrying a lot of heavy bags on their bikes. Four full large panniers and usually another bag on top. As they slowly make their way up the bridges and climbs I’m happy to be traveling light. (Even if that means I’ll smell a little bit more)
Obviously it’s not all bad, the tarmac is great and the views are very pretty but I’m convinced there are parts in Norway that are just as pretty as the Lofoten. Ferries are also a big part of traveling the Lofoten, and Norway, with many short ferry crossings. Luckily as a cyclist you can get onboard for free and skip the long queue. Just make sure to arrive on time because the ferry doesn’t wait and sometimes the next one is 4 hours later. I always make sure to stay with my bike until we actually disembark, sometimes the crew will stack bikes against each other and it’s not really great for any bicycle. (My deer skull usually prevents other bikes leaning against mine but I always try to make sure)
If there isn’t a ferry, the islands are connected by insane bridges. They reach up to 35 meters above the water and are steep climbs. I’ve looked at the gradient when cycling up and usually the bridges are 8-9%. Definitely not the easiest of climbs but very manageable. Whenever I see a bridge appear in the distance I get excited. They look stunning and I enjoy cycling up and descending down while looking out over the water.
So far Norway has lived up to the expectations but I’m curious to see what it’s like more south. According to a lot of locals the part from Bodo, where I am now, towards Steinkjer will be a lot better to cycle. Higher mountains, less cars and more dramatic landscapes are waiting!
My bike has a new chain and brake pads. I’m fueled with food and had a good rest. Ready to actually head south into what I hope to be less crowded areas.
Important stats of day 79-92
Amount of Km’s: 1477km
Amount of Elevation: 13.041m
Amount of calories: 52.560cal
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Total Km’s: 9333km
Total elevation: 108.274m
Total Calories: 349.515cal
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