Thailand ‘’The country of smiles’’.
I came to Thailand expecting good food, friendly people and impressive temples. So far, it has exceeded all of my expectations. As soon as I crossed the border I was greeted with smiling people- everyone says hello and are very helpful, even when I’m struggling to orderfood in Thai. What a difference compared to Malaysia.
Monsoon and floods in the East
I had been lucky avoiding the floods and downpours of monsoon season so far, but the first few provinces in Thailand were still in at-risk areas—especially along the East coast. Naturally, I decided to head west towards Krabi and then Phuket. Flexibility is key when traveling by bike.
Thankfully, I avoided getting caught in the rain but I did see the aftermath of heavy rainfall. Many of the rubber plantations in the south were flooded, but the path I rode was a little elevated. (Probably because of frequent flooding the region.)
The first major difference I noticed between Malaysia and Thailand was the road quality. I’d expected Thailand’s roads to be rougher, with more damage and dirt but the opposite was true. The paths and roads are some of the best I’ve cycled on. There are plenty of smaller paths that keep you off the main highways. Perfect asphalt and zero traffic makes for incredibly enjoyable days.
The island experience
Cycling through southern Thailand without visiting at least some islands would be a crime. After riding through jungles and rubber plantations for several days, I felt a change of scenery would do me good.
Instead of riding around the coast towards Phuket I opted to visit Ko Lanta and then take a ferry to Phuket. A significant shortcut but one I was happy to take.
Arriving on Ko Lanta the vibe instantly changed. Gone were the small local food vendors and suddenly I found myself surrounded by western people, sunburned to a crisp and riding on scooters. Not exactly my vibe but I wanted to stay open minded and give it a shot.
Unfortunately in touristy places like this, there’s often little to do beyond sitting on the beach or partying. I’m not the biggest fan of either so after a day of reading, swimming and drinking a cold beer I was ready to get on the boat and have a scenic ferry trip to Phuket.
Ferries and Thailand are incredibly nice when you are backpacking. With numerous different companies offering services, you can choose between small speedboats, long-tail boats or larger passenger ferries. But I’m no backpacker—I’m a bikepacker. Traveling with a fully loaded bicycle makes things a bit more challenging. Not ideal, but nothing’s impossible.
The ferry to Phuket turned out to consist of two different boats. I had to transfer at PhiPhi island. I assumed the transfer would happen in the harbor. Feeling semi confident I carried my bike on the first boat and gave it a secure place against the railing. Dry, safe and so far so good.
After an hour we could see PhiPhi island and one other boat, loaded with passengers, but no jetty in sight… An old-school sailing transfer. Perfectly fine with a backpack, but tricky with a bicycle. Still, I made it work and again found a nice spot to secure my bike and enjoyed a smooth ride to Phuket.
Phuket itself was too crowded for my taste, so I only stayed for the night. After a rest day and a scenic ferry trip, I was eager to head Norht. I’m happy to have seen the islands, but happier to be on mainland again and cycle!
Phuket to Chumphon
Racing through the busy traffic of Phuket, I made my way off the island quickly. My plan was to follow the west coast before crossing to the east toward Chumphon, where wanted to take a rest day. Immediately I was surrounded by locals on scooters, small fruit vendors and smalller Buddhist temples. This was the Thailand I came to experience. The route wasn’t as flat as I expected. Even riding along the coast, the road kept climbing and descending. Challenging!
The closer I got to the point where I’d be crossing over to the east side, the more intense the heat and humidity got. Temperatures ranged between 35 and 40 degrees Celsius, which meant I was drenched sweat when riding and even more when I stopped for a small break. The best thing to do? Keep riding.
The stretch through the jungle was incredible—one of the best days I had so far. Perfectly smooth tarmac wound up and down, following the natural flow of the jungle’s hills. Birds, butterflies and monkeys were everywhere and it felt incredibly special to ride here.
When I finally arrived in Chumphon, I was greeted by a small but lively town with a great food market. The wet season is supposed to be over over but a local storm heading South forced me to take a couple of rest days.
Rain in south east Asia is no joke—it’s heavy, and it’s best avoided when riding a bike.
For now I’m happy with eating, relaxing and enjoying a small local town. Thailand has been the perfect so far !
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