The Carratera Austral part 2

After 670km cycling in rain, sunshine, wind, gravel, rocks, uphill and downhill we felt pretty prepared for the second half of the Carratera Austral going from Coyhaique to Villa O'higgins. Our bikes had been serviced and were running smoothly again. Coyhaique gave us a few good days to rest, do some essential shopping. I needed a tent and Lucas needed a better sleeping mat, and we wanted to stock some more coffee and nuts for the road. You never know when the next store will be so it's always good to have some kind of back-up food.

After doing a lot of kilometres during the first week we were ahead of schedule a little bit and therefore decided to start off easy. The next town we wanted to stay in and do a hike up a mountain was Villa Cerro Castillo, 97km from us. We found a campsite 60km away and decided that would be a good spot to camp and relax. It would be almost all uphill so not an easy day at all.

The campsite was small but it a shower that we had to heat by a wood stove and it was also the first time camping in separate tents. I had found a pretty good one person tent in Coyhaique, named it ''the mansion''. The next day we did the last 30km, with 10km of the best downhill road we had so far. A very good day.

After a ''rest'' day which included a very tough hike up a mountain we followed Ruta 7 along glacial rivers and lakes until we finally arrived at a road sign we wanted to see: ''fin de paviemento'' or End of Pavement. Gravel was now in front of us until we would reach our destination 600km away. It felt like the adventure would now truly start. Opportunities of wild-camping were now better than regular campsites and the nature became a lot more intense. Using ioverlander to find the best spots did help and we managed to camp next to a glacial river to swim and wash and an amazing view to wake up to.

Whenever we would leave a bigger town we'd always try to see where the next town would be to do a rest day and some groceries again. After Cerro Castillo it would be the cute village of Puerto rio tranquil, mostly know for it's marble caves. Funnily this town was also where we met our frenchies again, and also another good friend of mine Karlijn who would be cycling from there back to Puerto Varas. We had a rest day to catch up with friends and enjoy the amazing scenery and booked a kayak tour early morning to see the marble caves before we would cycle again. At this point we were addicted to being on the road and we just wanted to get going.

A lot of days were trying to get the dust out of our lungs and eyes as we would ride on very loose gravel. Further south supplies did get more difficult to get so luckily we prepared dinner and breakfast and snacks for a couple of days. Pasta's, wraps, lentils were all foods that could easily be kept in our dedicated food and snack bag. We always made sure to have a healthy amount of cookies, it became a little moment for us. Keeps you going on the tougher bits. The road would vary between amazing gravel and very loose big rocks, and the typical ''washboards'' were the road would have horizontal bumps on the road. Very uncomfortable.

We'd either sleep somewhere with a pretty view or see if we would come across a campsite. Everyone on the Carratera that far south is incredible kind and inviting. At some point we saw a sign that said ''camping'' and decided to check it out. We had to follow a forest road for another 5km before arriving at a farm. There wasn't much just a small shack and horses in the field. The owners let us know we could either pitch the tents in the field (with horses) or sleep in the small house. The house also had a wood fired stove and shower and it became a welcome sight after another cold day. We did decide to sleep in our tents because it was a little damp and moldy. After a few hours some more people arrived by car, and they were on a quick road trip themselves, immediately they invited us over for wine, food, and some pretty good games of chess. They later helped us find a warm bed in Tortel too.

So yes, then as with every trip, at some point it has to end. But that didn't mean we wouldn't end a great adventure without one more big day. We had decided to do a little detour to the town of Tortel. A town that until a few years back was only accessible by boat and therefore was built on and connected by wooden boardwalks. A must see when you are in that area. Unfortunately we had one of our wetter days of the trip and arrived completely soaked and cold in Tortel. Our friends from the last campsite had let the owner know of a b&b that we would be arriving later and luckily reserved two beds. (You need some people on a road trip sometimes). After showering and warming up with a bottle of red wine each we looked at the map and weather forecast. 150km left to go, and the forecast was a lot of rain except one day. The next day.

So we both took a long think and then came to the conclusion that we needed to do the last 150km in one epic day. This would include a ferry at 11:00! Places to camp were non existent so the decision was made. We stocked up on chocolates, cookies, brownies and energy bars and asked the owner if she could make us breakfast earlier. We had to leave Tortel at 0630 to be able to do the 50km and a big climb before the ferry.

The day was epic. By far the toughest day we had done and after 80km we had a big break with, you've guessed it, our frenchies!! They were also on their way to the end but didn't know if they would make it. The day was very cold and windy so not an easy end at all. Me and Lucas kept going with the idea of our finish whisky at the end. The end, at some point, was visible but the road made a mandatory detour around a river for 10km. If at any moment we felt discouraged it was then. Our legs couldn't go anymore, we could see the end but it felt unreachable. Every hill, even just a small one, made us come to an almost standstill. The usual chatting stopped and both of us were just focused on one thing: the entrance of O'higgins and the sign that says ''Fin de Carratera austral''. And suddenly around a sharp bend, there it was. The end, our destination. We took some photos and then just sat there, with a whisky, for a good half hour before going to the hostel. The frenchies did not complete the full Carratera because of the cold. They had hitchhiked a ride for the last 100km. The next day me and Lucas went to the official end in a small harbour where our boat would leave a few days later to Argentina. It was only 10km but we tried to go as slow as possible to enjoy and reflect on our final km's of the Carratera. It was an adventure and definitely a route I'd recommend doing. It will be tough, it will teach you to plan ahead but it is worth it and when given the chance I'd do it all again.

The Carratera Austral, without a doubt one of the most beautiful bike packing routes in the world and a true adventure in Patagonia.

If you want to do this route yourself here's a few tips:

Bike rent: Australbikes in Puerto Varas. They can even ship your backpack to Villa O'higgins and you can drop the bike off there too!

Season: Jan-September. The weather changes quickly so always check your equipment and use common sense.

Camping: iOverlander for wild-camping spots and campings, google maps for a general feel.

Most importantly, take your time. It's an amazing route and rushing it would be a shame. Enjoy the climbs as much as the descents. Swim in every cold glacial river you can. Leave no trace so pick up your trash!