How much difference can there be when you cross a border. In the case of Spain-France, loads. France just felt more sophisticated, less rough. The first gravel road I took after the border crossing was through a vineyard, France felt more relaxed. The insane amount of bakery’s helped too, 3 pain au chocolats and 3 croissants were always stuffed in my food bag.
Border to Valence
My first real goal in France was to get to Valence. Last time I was there it meant I had finally reached southern France, now it meant the official end of the southern stage of the EDT. A big milestone. I had a rest day planned there in a small studio to recharge and I simply couldn’t wait.
The trail followed a lot of paved cycling tracks along the coast. This area of France is one of the most touristic and it felt a little weird being surrounded by so many campervans and day-cyclists. Eventually I joined the Via Rhona, a route that I’d already cycled before. It meant easy cruising next to the river, zigzagging my way through E-bikes and rolling into Valence. I cleaned my bike and handed it to the Decathlon for new brakes and some general maintenance and finally, the southern part was done!
The Jura
The Jura, a region in France dominated by mountains, forest, trails and wildlife. I was looking forward to this part of the trip a lot! Unfortunately, it had been very wet the weeks before I arrived there which meant the perfect forest trails and roads had now turned into a muddy mess. Ankle deep mud tracks meant hard work and not a lot of cycling.
I don’t mind tough terrain, but when my wheels won’t turn because of the mud, it’s time to change tactic. I’ve cycled across the Jura on 90% paved roads, which meant still great views and descents but a different vibe than what i was going for. I tried on different occasions to get back on the gravel trails but I always ended up in either mud, mist or even a herd of sheep once. I’ll come back to the Jura another time for a dedicated gravel/mountain bike adventure, I’m sure there is more to discover here.
The Vosges
The last mountains before I would reach Germany. Unfortunately also here it had been extremely wet the past days and meant more mud. The weather was dry so full of excitement I started the trail but unfortunately my wheels and ankles also got stuck in mud here. Rocky climbs became so slippery, I couldn’t get any grip. Cycling was a no go. I opted for a different, easier route. A cycling path follow the river Moselle. This meant two things:
Easy riding, mainly flat and paved.
E-Bikes.
To mentally prepare myself for the E-bike train, and because 3 pints after cycling makes for easier decisions, I took a rest day at a camping. I had met Kenny and Flip, two Belgium guys walking(!) to Nice. Insane. Later we were joined by Chloe, the was walking the Hexatrek, another insane long distance hike, but she had to go on the next day.
The three of us had a day of relaxing at the pool, beers, sightseeing and then I started my challenge of not being annoyed by electric bikes and their riders.
There was however, one last climb before I had flat roads: Ballon D’alsace. A climb once ridden in the Tour the France. It wasn’t the highest, or the steepest, but it always feels special to ride on an official Tour climb. After the Ballon I descended down to the Moselle.
Riding alongside the Moselle was as expected a comfortable route. Instead of rough gravel, endless climbs, and getting a little lost from time to time, I cruised along the river, campsites were available in almost every town and it was all flat. I did want to get back on trail rather quickly so the distance went up to a 130km ish daily instead of my usual 80-90. It took around 2-3 days to reach the border, a quick zigzag in Luxembourg and I was in Germany. Another country done.
France hadn’t been the most challenging or the the country with the most incredible views but still it was very pleasant to cycle across this country again. Good sandwiches, croissants, lots of campsites and pretty okay weather made it a very pleasant 2 weeks. For now, my mid Europe section has really started and I’m excited to see what Germany brings to this trip. I’m expecting lots of kebabs and forest trails. We shall see. Au revoir France und Guten tag Deutschland.
Important statistics of day 31-42:
Amount of Km’s: 1179,77km
Amount of elevation: 15.576hm
Amount of calories: 47.161
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Total km so far: 3794km
Total elevation: 52.884hm
Total calories: 150.628cal
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