South East Asia - Central Vietnam

A narrow strip of land with the sea on the east and mountains separating Vietnam from Laos at the west. Usually overlooked by many who travel through Vietnam but for a cyclist it’s the perfect place to really experience the culture and the local lifestyle.

The combination of mountains and the sea creates interesting and ever-changing weather conditions. Fierce winds along the coast, rainfall in the lush green mountains - Central Vietnam will always keep you on your toes.

Staying Flexible

My idea was to head into the mountains and slowly make my way towards Tam Coc. A small village known for caves and vertical rock formations. Unfortunately the weather changed for the worse and I found myself in the middle of a rain cloud coming from China. With the forecast showing more intense rain in the mountains I quickly changed my plan to stay on the coast and ride slightly less scenic, but hopefully avoid the worst of the rain.

Planning my rides to stop at various Nha Nghi’s (Vietnamese motels that are everywhere) I followed the coast to Hue. A citty where the old imperial city still stands proud. A huge walled city with gardens, temples and the emperor’s palace. Once reserved for royalty but now open to the public to wander freely and glimpse into Vietnam’s past.

Phong Nha - A first look at the ‘northern’ mountains

Leaving Hue I kept riding along the coast, sometimes treated with stunning views of a wild coastline, and at others just endless dull roads. I made a quick stop in Dong Hoi, partly to avoid the rain but also to celebrate my 30th birthday in the comfort of a hotel room. The city itself wasn’t spectacular, but that’s bike packing too. You find yourself completely emerged in a country and staying in ordinary non-tourist cities is part of that experience.

Slowly the scenery started to change, rice fields were now often framed by mountains in the background, a subtle sign that central Vietnam was coming to an end. Before I knew it I was fully surrounded by towering rock formations as I rolled into Phong Nha.

Continuing North I knew sleeping would be slightly more challenging. Towns became a lot smaller and often just had a small shop for some food and if lucky, a Nha Nghi. The weather also became worse with rain falling throughout the day, and temperatures dropped to 12-14 degrees. Cycling the remaining 350km to Tam Coc was all about making kilometers for me.

With less scenic roads, cold and constant rain.. it was time to just ride my bike again. Riding, eating and sleeping in random places until I finally reached Tam Coc. Wet and cold I arrived at my Homestay where I was greeted with a comfortable bed, a warm shower and some fresh Bahn Mi with eggs. Rest days well earned.

Tam Coc - caves and mountains

Arriving in Tam coc didn’t only mean rest days and sightseeing, it also marked the start of Northern Vietnam. Mountain passes and valleys awaited but before I started riding again I wanted to fully rest and explore the region of Tam Coc.

Best known for it’s meandering rivers, rice fields and caves Tam Coc is a hub for tourists. As a cyclist I always enjoy these places because it means more food options, better guesthouses and usually a little more English. I spend my days drinking various speciality coffees, buying a pair of shoes to increase comfort on the bike and visiting caves and bird parks by both a boat and bike.

It’s a stunning region and it felt great to take a break from cycling for a while and enjoy a more laid-back days.

The road north: Heading towards Sapa

Fully rested I made a route heading North. I had many highlights I wanted to see and visit but my first milestone would be Sapa. A mountain town in the far north and home to the fansipan. The highest peak in Indochina, housing an impressive Buddha and temple. A must visit for everyone travelin through Vietnam.

Getting there however, would be more challenging than I had imagined and it felt like a true pilgrimage towards the temple and the so called ‘Roof of Indochina’