Crossing the border from Cambodia into Vietnam was another good experience. Cambodia gave me my exit stamp and free water without much hassle and before me was the massive border complex of Vietnam. Strangely because it was a remote border point. It was only occupied by two border officials, one of them pretty strict and a little intimidating. Vietnam required an E-visa and obviously I didn’t have this on paper, but after some mumbling, lots of photos, typing and waiting for 30 minutes I finally heard the beautiful sound of a visa stamp being put in my passport. Quick scan of all my gear and a small chat about my plans in Vietnam by another official and I was in. Beautiful tarmac roads were waiting for me, Vietnam, here I come!
Southern Highlights
The southern part is often overlooked by a lot of travellers. Lackin dramatic mountains and scenery a lot of travellers decide to skip this part. But is has so much to offer. Rice fields, small villages, flower and coffee plantations and a stunning coastline towards Hoi An.
I was lucky enough to arrive in Vietnam just before they celebrate their new year, TET. A festive period of 10 days where everyone visits family and a lot of businesses are closed. A special time in Vietnam but one that would require some planning. I really wanted to visit Dalat, a mountain town in the south, and decided this would be a good place to celebrate TET and rest for two weeks.
The first few days in Vietnam were mainly rubber plantations and rice fields. I’d stop and sleep in smaller towns and experienced people stopping and pointing at me for the first time! A bizar thing really, but also shows how unvisited this area of Vietnam is. A quick laugh and often some thumps up made for a wholesome interaction every time. Slowly the rubber plantations disappeared and the rice fields became more scarce, mountains were in front of me and I started climbing and descending beautiful roads.
A big part of bike traveling is food and sleep, and the first days in a new country are always a little chaotic. New foods, new sleeping places and almost no English to really help. Luckily locals will always try to help. I had a man come over to my table to show me how to eat Bahn Xeo, a rice paper and pancake dish you assemble yourself, and a woman giving me a cabin for free to sleep in at her farm! Although sometimes it’s exhausting not knowing what’s going on around you, in hindsight these are always the moments that make any journey more special.
A few big climbs later, surrounded by pine trees, and I made it to Dalat. Time for a break.
Dalat & TET
As I said before, TET is a special time in Vietnam. Not only a public holiday but also the time everyone meets family, places offerings for the new year and celebrate with lots of food and drinks. Dalat was filled with decorations, flowers and people placing small tables outside their homes. I was staying in a small family hostel and mainly spend my time at the night market, drinking warm soy milk on the streets and doing some sightseeing with a group of travellers of the hostel.
On the evening of TET I was invited by the owner of the hostel to join their celebrations with friends and family. A small plastic table was set up outside and we all enjoyed an evening of chatting, eating and drinking some beers. Some English was spoken, lots of Vietnamees, but I was just happy to be there and inmmersed in such time. At midnight we lit up some fireworks before heading to the rooftop to see the main fireworks. A good start of the new year.
Dalat to Hoi An
My two week break in Dalat did wonders. My legs felt rested, and I was eager to jump back on the bike and head North. The main goal being Hoi An. A historical town where tailors make custom silk suits, lanterns light the river and streets and every night boats sail out with beautiful lanterns to light up the river. Touristy as anything but a must visit when in Vietnam!
Dalat was the highest point I’d reach in the South so a big downhill was waiting for me before following the coastline North. I descended down through some of the densest fog I’ve ever ridden in. With visibility pretty much non existent I rode down blindly before finally escaping the clouds and see the Vietnamese coast for the first time.
I hoped for a gentle ride along the coast but the weather can be unpredictable and I found myself battling a storm for 3 days. Northern wind and a Northern directions don’t really work too well, but the views made up for it. Even though progress might’ve been slower than I hoped, I enjoyed the winding coastal roads, the fresh air and to a certain extent also the tougher days.
Two other cyclists I had met told me about a good hostel en route, and I ended up staying there for 4 days, waiting out the worst of the storm. I have a lot of time left in Vietnam so I can stay in places longer to make my riding more comfortable.
A few ‘’easy’’ days later and I finally saw the river and lanterns! I had made it to Hoi An. The amount of tourists, people on rented bicycles and raised prices didn’t matter to me. I sometimes need to remind myself how special it is what I get to do everyday. I bought a beer, watched the river and boats, and for the first time in a while, I felt proud. I had reached Hoi An on a bike!!
Now for the most difficult decision of this trip… What color lantern shall I buy?
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