I was ‘’forced’’ to stay a little longer in Chumphon than I had planned. Within the hour the streets were completely flooded, insane! Still going to my usual 7-eleven for snacks but now barefoot. It’ll dry up at some point.
Few days later the weather cleared and I could finally start riding again. I had met another cyclist, also going solo north, and we decided to see if we’re also capable of riding as a duo. The plan was to follow the coastline and camp in different National Parks.
Riding together went surprisingly well and it was a nice change of pace to have someone else riding besides me, and often in front of me.
The National Parks were small but beautiful, we could camp on the beach for 30baht and woke up with incredible sunrises and gifted bananas. Unfortunately I was a suffering a little bit with fever and a headache but even that couldn’t make it less enjoyable.
We met some other cyclists along the way and before I knew it we had to go our seperate ways again. Going solo again after riding with others is always a little strange, even if it’s short I still need to adjust again to being on my own. It felt good though, energized from socializing, I set off.
Ayuthayya
Christmas was coming up and my idea was to ride past Bangkok and spend a few days in Ayuthayya instead. A smaller city but filled with temples.
It would be around 400km from the parks to Ayuthayya which I would reach just before Christmas. Perfect timing!
The road on this part of Thailand was incredible. Small roads with perfect pavement led me through plantations and to temples. I’ve seen a huge Naga statue, a mythical creature that protects the temple, and a cave filled with 100’s of Buddha’s.
Less happy side note:
Cycling through rural areas with no other tourists showcases the true Thailand again. Very special and pretty, but also a lot of poverty. People sleeping in trash filled houses, flies and trash laying everywhere, disgusting. There’s a lot of plastic waste or you see the locals burning plastic next to the road. Not a sight you usually see but riding through a country really shows the other sides too.
Onwards to Ayuthayya I got to visit an old temple and palace of a past king. Filled with monkeys and old staircases on the mountain side leading up to a small pagoda and Buddha. Really special!
A floating market, some more rice fields and some salt farms and before I knew it I had reached Ayuthayya. Time for some relaxation.
I spend the days sitting around, eating, and I had met two other Dutchies to hang out with over Christmas. Some beers, visiting temples and street food made for the perfect break of cycling.
To the Cambodian border
It wasn’t far now to the point where’d I cross the border into Cambodia but first I had one more National Park to go through, the Koa Yai park. One of the oldest and most biodiverse parks in all of Thailand. Chances of seeing wild elephants, shoebills, king cobras and pythons.
I found another campsite just before the park and I hoped to have a quiet relaxed night but Thailand wouldn’t be Thailand if it threw in a surprise.
I had a a family of 5 all setting up their tents next to mine, running electricity cables close to the tent, and setting up multiple very bright lights. Not the most ideal sleeping situation but I guess that’s just how it is. Also I had a dog peeing on my tent in the night.
Kao Yai was beautiful nonetheless. Unfortunately no elephants but I did see monkeys and a shoebill! The Bird Nerd was happy!
The rest of the kilometers towards the border were empty roads dissapearing in the mountains, a real treat to cycle and end my time in Thailand. I even got a full lunch from the incredible people at ‘’I love coffee’’. I couldn’t imagine a better send off.
The border crossing and final Thailand notes
This border would be my first VOA (Visa On Arrival) border. I was a little nervous because you read so much about corruption, scams, and unpleasant experiences. Border are just not a place you wanna have any issues. But I had found a very relaxed border point. Everyone was super friendly and within an hour I had an exit stamp, a visa and entry stamp for Cambodia and I was on my way! On the right side of the route, into a new country.
After spending a month in Thailand and riding through a lot of different provinces I can say that this country is an incredible place to ride a bike. The people are super friendly, the roads are some of the best and the food will keep you going without issues.
Of course there are downsides too. You see a lot of plastic waste, rural areas can be a little lonely and isolated and sometimes the heat is too much. But come on, you get to ride a bicycle in Thailand!! I’ve loved this month here and I understand the appeal it has for multiple visits.
Thank you Thailand.
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