South East Asia - Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam is best known for its impressive mountains reaching towards the Chinese border. Terraced rice fields, misty peaks and small towns in valleys awaited. Ever since planning this trip the North has been a a big goal for me to ride. I was hoping on epic climbs and descents, breathtaking scenery and rural hospitality. The north has given me all of that, and more.

Towards Sa Pa

Leaving Tam Coc I’d make my way up to Sa Pa where I wanted to see the Fansipan peak. Indochina’s highest peak and an important place of worship.

I knew mountains would be appearing soon but for the first 200 kilometer I was riding along side a river heading North. This meant a small dyke and flat roads which made it a comfortable start. The weather also cleared up and before I knew it I had reached Lào Cai. Lào Cai is an important border city connecting China and Vietnam.

I visited a bike mechanic to fix my brakes before I’d hit the mountains since I couln’t properly stop on descents or even flats. After a quick replacement of my cables I was all set to begin my first real Vietnamese climb.

A 25km winding road would take me to 1500 meters above sea level. With an average gradient of 8% and often reaching sections with a insane 18% this was definitely a challenge. Slow and steady I made my way up and often stopping at the various small stalls that sold water or fruits. After 3,5 Hours of non-stop climbing I finally rolled slightly downhill in a busy town. Exhausted and happy I sat on the square where I met up with Jay again. Together we enjoyed a well-earned lunch and drinks!

I had a few days planned in Sa pa to take the cable cart up to the Fansipan and enjoy the scenic mountain town. The area surrounding Sa Pa is home to various tribes and communities and me and Jay went to a local village to experience a traditional herbal bath. Boiling water is mixed with different herbs that works wonders for aching legs.

After waiting a little longer in my Homestay for the mist to clear I made my way down the same road again towards another big highlight: The Ha Giang loop.

Ha Giang

The road towards Ha Giang was fairly straightforward. It’s a well travelled route by backpackers so I’ve found myself riding alongside busses and at every coffee stop there were some other travelers too. It made for a comfortable two days of cycling. With the road weaving up and down a little it wasn’t flat but I didn’t have to climb any real mountains yet..

The city itself wasn’t much. Mainly used as a stopover before backpackers start the Ha Giang loop. But it was good to sit in my hostel and make a plan.

The Ha Giang Loop

A must visit for anyone traveling through Vietnam. It’s often described as ’’The highlight of a trip’’. Towering mountains, winding roads alongside the cliffside and every next view more beautiful than the previous. It’s best known as a motorcycle loop, you can drive it on the back of a motorcycle for 4 days, truly taking in the scenery.

I however, was cycling and I couldn’t leave Vietnam before I had cycled the loop myself. Who needs a motorcycle when you can use your own power and really experience the road.

Whilst I was making my plan to leave I chatted with some others from my hostel and I made a decision to do something I could have never expected.

I joined a Ha Giang Loop tour, on the back of a motorcycle.

Since I had days to spare before heading to Hanoi I decided to experience the loop twice. Once as part of a tour. This gave me the opportunity to see all the highlights, get a feel for the surroundings, Homestays, road quality etc and then after coming back I’d set off to ride it myself.

It ended up being a great decision. The following 4 days were filled with a lot of cool things to see and some much needed talk with other people.

Immediately after leaving Ha Giang I could understand why people loved this area so much. The mountains and roads were some of the most beautiful I had seen anywhere in Vietnam. Coffee stops looking out over stretching valleys filled with rice fields, cozy Homestays with home cooked food and clouds shrouding the peaks of far away mountains.

As planned I quickly found my way back on the bike to do it all over again. With a slower pace the scenery felt even more intense. The climbs were tough and the descents were fast making this a truly special place to ride a bicycle. Sure it might be busier with tourists, but this also comes with more places to rest and snack, which you definitely need in this remote area. Homestays are pretty much everywhere so you can ride until you don’t want to anymore and just stop for the day.

In my opinion the Ha Giang Loop is some of the best riding you can do Even if you would only ride the 300km loop, it’s still more than worth it. It’s a place that’s become very dear to me with some of the best memories of my entire trip.

Ha Giang to Hanoi: My final stretch in SE-Asia

I knew the area around Ha Giang and would be my last real must-see of this trip. With only 300km left to go until Hanoi I took it a little slower. Staying in various Homestays to not rush and to experience my last days on the bike to the fullest.

After almost 5 months, 3 of which in Vietnam, my trip came to an end. With every kilometer I came closer to my final day and before I really realized 110km separated me and the city. One day of riding.

I’d been telling my friends and parents I was ready to go home for a while now.. On this last day I wasn’t. 5 months worth of memories and experiences came rushing back. I’m not able to fully describe the feeling of finishing a trip but I’ll never get used to it.

I became hyper aware of everything I had accomplished and done the past half year. Camping on the beaches in Thailand, the smell of food courts in Malaysia, intense heat of Cambodian mountains and the serene rides through Vietnamese rice fields. In an instance I relived my whole trip before seeing the sight I dreaded and looked forward to at the same time: The skyline of Hanoi.

Mopeds everywhere, tourists crossing the streets left and right, cars honking and trying to make their way through and local vendors walking around with fresh fruits. I made way through, zig-zagging and avoiding everyone. It felt as if everything was automated and without much trouble I reached my Airbnb. Drowning out the sounds of the streets, I carried my bike up and through the door.

Kuala Lumpur to Hanoi. I have done it.